Romantic Brittany – Abbaye du Beauport

I’m just developing the photos from our last holyday, in July. We went in Bretagne, north west France, discovering traditions, nature… and good food, of course.

One of the firsts days, we stopped near Paimpol, in the the Côte di Goëlo, north of Saint-Brieuc. And, in a nice sunny day, we went to Beauport . . . → Read More: Romantic Brittany – Abbaye du Beauport

Öland – The last page of Sweden 2009′s trip

The last days before coming back to Danmark.
An unusual landscape, after many days sourrounded by woods, forests and lakes.

A flat island, and almost completely devoid of trees: Öland.
Peculiar….
So peculiar that I’ve taken about 150 photos in these two days.
And I’ve chosen one third, to show you.

Because a lot of photos are needed to describe properly the various landscapes….
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D700 at 200ISO, 20mm f2.8 AF, f11, 1/1000sec, bias -1EV

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D700 at 200ISO, 20mm f2.8 AF, f8, 1/500sec, bias 2/3EV

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D700 at 200ISO, 28mm f2.8 AF, f11, 1/500sec, bias -1/3EV

The typical windmills (corrently about 250, on the over two thousands existent an hundred years ago):
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Sigurd runestone tells a saga

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D700 at 200ISO, 16mm f2.8 AF, f5.6, 1/100sec, bias 0EV

Otter was one of Rodmar’s three sons. When he fished for salmon, he took on the shape of an otter. On one such occasion, the Æsir Loki, Hörnir and Odin happened by on their way to Rodmar’s house where they planned to spend the night. The Æsir thought that an otter skin would be a suitable gift for Rodmar. So, Otter was killed by a stone Loki threw at him.

Later that evening the three Æsir went to Rodmar and showed him their prey. Rodmar became angry, and demanded that the Æsir filled the otter skin with gold as penance for the crime. Loki went to the Anvara river and used his net to catch the rich dwarf Andvari, who had taken on the shape of a pike.

The dwarf purchased his freedom with all his gold he owned, except for one gold ring. But the gold was not enough to fill the otter skin. One more piece of gold was needed. Andvari tried to hide his ring. When Loki ripped the ring from his hand, the dwarf spoke a curse over all who come in contact with the gold, especially the magic gold ring.

Once Rodmar had received the gold, he did not want to share it with his other two sons, Fafnir and Regin. Fafnir became enraged and killed his father to get at the gold. Thereafter, Fafnir took the shape of a snake and brooded on top of the gold in his home, in a place called Gnitaheden.

Regin, the other brother who was a smith, wanted his share of the patrimony and planned to seize the gold through trickery. He brought Sigurd, who had earlier become his foster son, into his plans. He forged a razor-sharp sword, named Gram, for Sigurd.

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D700 at 200ISO, 20mm f2.8 AF, f8, 1/160sec, bias 0EV

Urged on by his foster father Reign, Sigurd dug a hole in the ground at Gnitaheden, where Fafnir (in the shape of a snake) used to slither his way to a lake to drink. When Fafnir passed the hole, Sigurd stabbed him through the heart with his sword, Gram. Fafnir died and Sigurd was given the name of Fafnesbane (the slayer of Fafnir).

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D700 at 400ISO, 20mm f2.8 AF, f8, 1/125sec, bias 0EV

After the deed, Regin asked Sigurd to roast the heart of Fafnir over an open fire. He wanted to eat the heart so that the soul of Fafnir would not die, because after all he was Regin’s brother.
Sigurd accidently burnt himself and put his finger in his mouth. He got Fafnir’s blood on his tongue. Instantly he could understand the meaning of the birdsong.

The birds warned Sigurd. Regin was planning to kill him, partly to revenge his brother Fafnir, partly to get the treasure for himself. The birds advised Sigurd to kill Regin.
Sigurd sought out Regin and cut off his head so that he would escape his thoughts in the future.

Then, Sigurd travelled to Fafnir’s home, where he found the disputed gold and many other precious objects. He loaded the treasure onto his horse Grani, a direct descendant of Odin’s horse Sleipnir. However, Grani refused to move from his stall before Sigurd himself mounted.

800px-Sigurd
Drawing source: Wikipedia

This is the Sigurd Fafnesbane history, according to the Vöslunga saga.
We found this peculiar runestone (poetically called Sö 101) close to Rasmund (near Eskiltuna), where it was carved in XII century.
Maybe it isn’t the best Sigurd stone, for the artistic contents, but it’ s probably the most complete description of the Saga.
Large (at least six meters), the stone summarize some anecdotes of the story:
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a pagan easter

In Italy, you know, there are many people who follow the easter processions.
There are many choiche: the normal easter mass, the friday night procession, and sometimes fairs in all the so-called holy week. So-called bacause often it’s just an excuse to make a party… and the religion stays somewhere else.

But in some little villages, in many regions around Italy, survive some ancient traditions. Processions that are like centuries ago. Outside Italy, is very famous the holy week in Zamora, in Spain (sorry, the website’s only in spanish).

Last easter, I’ve followed a particular procession in Castiglione Garfagnana, a little and semi-unknown village in the most famous italian region: Tuscany.

Castiglione Garfagnana, like the name suggests, is in the Apuane Alps (where the Carrara marble come from)… but in the “wrong side“.
So, the Garfagnana has passed the centuries separate from the rest of the region, with rare tourists and more emigrants than other areas around.
This isolation haven’t kept distant only the tourists (and moneys they carry with), but has permitted to keep many of the oldest traditions, too.

La processione de’ Crocioni

Crocioni” means “big crosses”, but is not pure italian.

The procession is the holy Thursday’s night, after dinner (it starts around nine), and this is the first particuality.
It represents the Jesus’ passion… one day before all the other representations.
It sounds like the first evidence of how old is it. Only until Middle Age the days started with the day before’s sunset, and only some protestant churches have kept this tradition. The roman catholic one starts all the passion’s celebrations on Friday.

The Crocioni start from the Castiglione Garfagnana’s main church, a nice example of the roman architecture from XII century.
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In front of the church were some roman soldiers, and a cross. A real cross, built in real, weighted wood.
In 2007 the holy thursday was the 20 march, and it was a very cold night…
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